(i’m 32 years old and i’ve never surfed)
(central component of ancient ‘polynesian’ culture)
(chief of the tribe was the most skilled surfer)
My cousin Danny Coury was a surfer
(and a guitarist)
*he’s my Dennis Wilson*
‘Swell’ –>
formation of long-wavelength surface waves
Fetch, often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water over which a given wind has blown.
Wave Strength –>
Strength of wind / Duration of wind / Length of fetch
(surf tends to be larger and more prevalent on coastlines exposed to large expanses of ocean traversed by intense low-pressure systems)