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-as of [21 SEPTEMBER 2024]–
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*AKA* –>
“LINE CORD”
“MAINS CABLE”
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“DC POWER CONNECTORS”
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$23.92
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*CO-AXIAL POWER CONNECTOR*
*BARREL JACKS*
*DC CONNECTOR*
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Choosing the plug
Hopefully, you have the size of the devices plug and can just check the adapters measurements, there are 2 measurements for these types of connectors.
OD – Outer diameter of the plug.
ID – Inner diameter of the plug.
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A 5 mm OD x 2 mm ID says the outer diameter is 5mm and the inner is 2mm.
If you go into a shop you can compare and test the connector size, or if you are technically minded you can measure the size of the port and pin yourself.
If you are measuring you need the diameter of the center pin for the (ID) and the inner diameter of the port (OD).
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(a ‘power cord’ is an electrical cable that temporarily connects an ‘appliance’ to the ‘mains electricity supply’ via a ‘wall socket’ or ‘extension cord’)
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(the terms are generally used for cables using a power plug to connect to a single-phase alternating current power source at the local line voltage—(generally 100 to 240 volts, depending on the location))
The terms power cable, mains lead, flex or kettle lead are also used.
A lamp cord (also known as a zip cord) is a light-weight, ungrounded, single-insulated two-wire cord used for small loads such as a table or floor lamp.
A cord set includes connectors molded to the cord at each end (see Appliance coupler).
Cord sets are detachable from both the power supply and the electrical equipment, and consist of a flexible cord with electrical connectors at either end, one male, and one female.
One end of the cord set is attached to a molded electrical plug;
the other is typically a molded electrical receptacle to prevent the possibility of having an exposed live prong or pin which would cause electric shock.
The female connector attaches to the piece of equipment or appliance while the male plug connects to the electrical receptacle or outlet.
Power cord, with plug at end, plugged into a Japanese outlet with ground post, for a washing machine.
Features[edit]
Power cables may be either fixed or detachable from the appliance.[1]
In the case of detachable leads, the appliance end of the power cord has a female connector to link it to the appliance, to avoid the dangers from having a live protruding pin.
Cords may also have twist-locking features, or other attachments to prevent accidental disconnection at one or both ends.
A cord set may include accessories such as
fuses for overcurrent protection,
a pilot lamp to indicate voltage is present,
or a leakage current detector.
Power cords for sensitive instruments, or audio/video equipment may also include a shield over the power conductors to minimize electromagnetic interference.
A power cord or appliance coupler may have a retaining clamp, a mechanical device that prevents it from inadvertently being pulled or shaken loose.
Typical application areas with stricter safety requirements include
medical technology,
stage and lighting technology,
and computing equipment.
For specialty equipment such as
construction machinery,
sound and lighting equipment,
emergency medical defibrillators
and electrical power tools,
used in locations without a convenient power source,
extension cords are used to carry the electric current up to hundreds of feet away from an outlet.
In North America, the National Electrical Manufacturers Association develops standards for electrical plugs and receptacles and cables.[2]
International power cords and plug adapters are used in conjunction with electrical appliances in countries different from those in which they were designed to operate.
Besides a cord with one end compatible to receptacles or a device from one country and the other end compatible with receptacles or devices from another country, a voltage converter is usually necessary, as well, to protect travelers’ electronic devices, such as laptops, from the differing voltages between the United States and places like Europe or Africa.
North American lamp cords have two single-insulated conductors designed for low-current applications.
The insulator covering one of the conductors is ribbed (parallel to wire) for the entire length of the cord, while the other conductor’s insulator is smooth.
The smooth one is hot and the ribbed one is neutral.
Connectors
IEC 60320 power cables come in normal and high-temperature variants, as well as various rated currents.
The connectors have slightly different shapes to ensure that it is not possible to substitute a cable with a lower temperature or current rating, but that it is possible to use an overrated cable.
Cords also have different types of exterior jackets available to accommodate environmental variables such as
moisture,
temperature,
oils,
sunlight,
flexibility,
and heavy wear.
For example, a heating appliance may come with a cord designed to withstand accidental contact with heated surfaces.
Worldwide, more than a dozen different types of AC power plugs and sockets are used for fixed building wiring.
Products sold in many different markets can use a standardized IEC 60320 connector and then use a detachable power cord to match the local electrical outlets.
This simplifies safety approvals, factory testing, and production since the power cord is a low-cost item available as a commodity.
Since the same types of appliance-side connectors are used with both 110 V and 230 V power cables, the user must ensure the connected equipment will operate with the available voltage.
Some devices have a slide-switch to adapt to different voltages, or wide-ranging power supplies.
Standards
National electrical codes may apply to power cords and related items. For example, in the United States, power cords must meet UL Standards 62[4] and 817.[5]
Power supplies
Cord sets must be distinguished from AC adapters, where the connector also contains a transformer, and possibly rectifiers, filters and regulators.
Unwary substitution of a standard mains-voltage connector for the power supply would result in application of full line voltage to the connected device, resulting in its destruction and possible fire or personal injury.
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See also
AC power plugs and sockets
Extension cord
Power strip
Power supply
References
en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Power_cord
Power cord – Wikipedia
6-7 minutes
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Choosing the right AC adapter and plug for your DC device.
6-8 minutes
Did you just get a gadget but the AC adapter is not included and you are always chewing through batteries?
This guide will go through the basics of choosing a power supply that matches your device.
What is an AC adapter?
Basically, it converts your mains power AC 110-240V AC into a smaller usually DC voltage that your small device needs to operate.
Often these are required for charging or powering battery operated devices.
A look at your typical device
By far the easiest way is to check if your device has a specific power adapter already available, this takes the guesswork out of getting your own third-party power adapter.
If you can’t find one then this quick guide covers the basic things to look for.
The first thing you want to do is find out what your device needs to operate so inspect the device and look for any labels or symbols that indicate either the voltage or mAh/A.
If you can not find anything have a look in the user manual or try a quick Google search.
This laptop has
V = An input Voltage of 19.5V.
AC or DC – DC as indicated by the symbol.
mAh/A – consumes 3.34A to 4.62A of current.
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Once you have this key data you are ready to start looking for an adapter.
Choosing the right adapter specs.
The general rule is to match the V and equal or beat the mAh, so if you are choosing an AC adapter to make sure you check the following,
The adapter output V matches the rated input V of the device.
The adapter output is greater or equal to the devices rated mAh or A.
The plug fits into your device and has the correct polarity.
Usually, all of this info is on the adapter sticker, remember you are always looking for the output V and mAh or A.
A typical ac adapter sticker with all the essential info.
The output is 8V 2.5A.
If that is all you needed and feel confident start hunting for your adapter now,
if you still want a deeper breakdown of the adapter features we have a deeper explanation below;
Checking the (V)olts
AC or DC –
Most adapters convert AC to DC, but it is still important to check the output.
These symbols show the type of output of the adapter; usually, it is labeled as AC/DC or with the symbols above.
Volts –
This is usually written on the adapter sticker or near the power connector port and can be written as V ,VAC or VCD.
It is important to use the correct volts when choosing the adapter as a device can only run on the rated voltage.
The most common are 18V, 12V, 9V, 6V, 5V and 3V.
Checking the (A)mps
Once you have confirmed the voltage of the device we need to find the amount of current that it uses.
Current tells us how much power the device needs to operate.
Amps:
This is also usually written on the devices sticker or near the power port, this is measured in A or mAh.
The adapter you choose must be able to supply at least the current rating of the device.
Do not worry if the adapter has a higher rating as the device will only consume what it needs.
Usually, a higher power adapter will be more expensive, so if you have the option just match the device’s power.
Your device is unlikely to operate if you have an adapter with a lower A or mAh output then the device, and if it does operate the adapter is likely to get very hot and could be dangerous.
Amps and volts what about Watts?
Voltage carries the power and the Amps are the measurement of how much power it consumes, think of it like a river, the V is how wide the river is and the A is how fast the water is flowing, so a low volt high amp circuit is a small river flowing fast
If we look at the river we could calculate how much water is flowing into the river per hour.
This would be the Watts.
There is a direct relationship between these three variables.
A 12V 2A adapter (12m river flowing at 2m per hour) would have the watts of 12 X 2 = 24W.
The basic equations are here
W = V X A
A = W/V
V = W/A
Most devices will list A or mAh and not list the Watts if you have one but need the other use the basic equation to convert.
Reading the polarity of the connector
Once you have the V and A down then comes the tricky part, most appliances will have a circular connector with the inside hole carrying one pole and the outside carrying the other.
The most common is center positive (+) connectors.
There is also the less popular center negative (-) connector.
The adapter and the device must match so always double check the symbol on the AC adapter and the device show the same polarity.
A center negative connector.
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The universal power adapter
If you are not sure on the pin type or are looking to use it for a few devices then make it easy with a universal adapter, they allow you to have different voltages, polarities, and connectors.
As USB slowly takes over, the charging system is becoming universal,
USB is now becoming available in lower power devices and as chargers become more powerful there will likely be bigger and powerful devices running natively on USB.
Until then remember to be safe with all electronics and double check everything as incorrect voltage or polarity can damage your device.
I couldn’t spot any adjustable power supplies on our site but we do have a lot of adapter heads and already made adapters for laptops and other devices here.
This article was requested by one of our readers so if you have an idea let me know and I will try my best to make one for you.
If you have any questions or think I should add something to this page I’m all ears
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*👨🔬🕵️♀️🙇♀️*SKETCHES*🙇♂️👩🔬🕵️♂️*
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